The Algarve region was under Moorish rule for over 500 years. In fact the name comes from the Arabic, Al-Gharb, which means the west. (It was the westernmost region the Moors conquered.) That said, the area is the southernmost part of Portugal, just north of Morocco across the water. (The Moors came across the straits of Gibraltar when they conquered.)

You can see the Moorish influence in the architecture (lots of whitewashed buildings, funny chimneys, iron railings and rounded shapes) and even the customs of the area. In fact when the Portuguese recaptured the area in 1249, they allowed the Moors to continue living in the area, just outside the walls. So Arab craftsmanship and customs were carried forward.

I’m currently in Loulé, which was originally Al-Aliya. And is thus pronounced something like Loo-lay (not that I can pronounce anything in Portuguese. It’s definitely an odd accent compared to Spanish and Italian. Lots of shushing of Ss and dropping of leading vowels, Js pronounced as the French would, D sounds for Rs, and Cs are a totally mystery. I could go on. I can’t figure it out. Of course I haven’t looked up pronunciation rules but instead continue to be perplexed. Hey I’m leaving Portugal in a few days…)

Loulé a small town yet historically had some prominence even though it’s about 6 miles inland. The other important cities in Algarve were mostly on the Atlantic coast. Loulé’s #1 attraction (for tourists and locals alike) is their open markets, following their Arab tradition. In fact, the food market building, open every day but Sunday was built in the early 1900s in Arab style.

You can see the difference between the Saturday market and mid-week in the following pictures. (You can also see this huge fish that I had to take a photo of. No idea what it is.) Inside is the same vendors but the outdoor stalls are only Saturday. People come from all around to do their weekly shopping here — or maybe just for their big Sunday meal. I’m not sure the fresh fish and produce would last all week.

There’s also a Saturday “gypsy” market which I think is more popular in high season. I’d read that bus-loads of people come for it but I didn’t see that. It’s basically a typical open goods market — scarves (hear that, Elaine?), leather goods, cheap jewelry, tchotchkes, clothes, linens, etc. Some made in Portugal and decent quality but others clearly knockoffs and made in China (I saw the writing on some plastic bags) or elsewhere.

I think the thing I found most fascinating about the gypsy market is that it’s in front of this chapel. Up the hill. The Shrine of Nossa Senhora da Piedade.

Anyway enough on markets. The town is about 20,000 people with an old town (and castle) in the center. It’s a bit higher over the surrounding lands which may explain why they built a fortress here (dating back to Roman times if not before). I’m staying right near the castle and can walk the entire old town leisurely in about an hour.

It’s got its share of repurposed buildings (the bell tower below on this church was previously a mosque minaret and the park was their cemetery). And the town hall and school were an old monastery and convent.

The convent is particularly weird as it has this huge Australian pine tree in the middle.

I originally saw it poking out above the “skyline” where I’m staying and wondered if it had been dragged in here (perhaps not by bulls) like the pine tree in Guimarães for this time of year. But no, it’s clearly firmly planted and has been here 100 years. There’s even a plaque for it.

Although they have definitely lit it up for Christmas! Speaking of Christmas, on Saturday early afternoon as I walked around the town and marketplace, I saw the streets being closed off and a stage and sound system being erected. I thought maybe it was time to turn on all the lights…. turns out it was a much bigger deal.

In front of the market was 50-100 (I’m bad at estimating) motorcycles. And a bunch of leather clad Santa’s. Or fuzzy red-clad hell’s angels? This was intriguing.

I’d been walking around all morning (the gypsy market is out of the center and I took a roundabout way back but more on that later) and I wanted to return to my Airbnb. I figured I’d head back out around 4-5 to see what’s going on. Well a bit after I returned I realized I was hearing more honking than usual (I’m right around the corner from the market street), plus the loud revving of the unmistakable Harley engine sound, and oddly, clip-clopping. It was time to head out earlier than expected!

I just missed the motorcycle Santa brigade, but I caught the horses with their caballeros — some actually dressed formally, others clearly students in a school. They had the horses prancing and trotting sideways which I don’t think is an easy feat. My pictures didn’t turn out well but it was cool.

Then came the town parade. They actually had little people for Santa’s elves (is this PC?). Many people on stilts dressed festively. For some unknown reason, a WWI pilot in a tiny plane that emitted soap bubbles, preceded by other WWI soldiers inside balloon baskets. Really no idea how this related to Christmas. (I kept thinking of the Little Prince.) Oh and a Mephistophelean skinny Santa dude. With Rastafarian dreadlocks down to his knees. I had to get a photo of his hair just to prove I’m not making this up. What I’m not sure is whether it’s part of his costume or his actual hair. (There was also a traditional Santa with the elves but I see my photos don’t really show him.) There were a lot more festivities, singing (in Portuguese — I only recognized Jingle Bells), meeting Santa, and putting bubbles in the fountain (I presume to look like snow). I have more photos but I’ve got mediocre WiFi here and uploading pictures is taking forever. So maybe another time!

On a completely different note, I have to add that as part of my long exploratory walk back from the gypsy market, I decided to find their cemetery. I realized it’s weird that with so many churches all over Portugal, I hadn’t seen any cemeteries. I’m not sure if the one I saw here is representative but it was certainly cool. First it’s out in the middle of nowhere.I had to walk through a wilderness area to get there.

Next when you walk in it’s like you’re in a village. With streets and blocks. And apartment complexes. Like most cemeteries there was a map when you went in so you can find your loved one, but I usually feel like a cemetery is like a park. This, with the paved pathways, felt more like a town.

All the mausoleums, as well as the raised graves (tombs?) had a ton of photos, religious pieces, plaques, and flowers completely covering the available space. And in the mausoleums, coffins as well. It was impressive. And I’ve never seen bank vaults of mausoleums…

I saw a man cleaning the glass of one and another older man (80s?) standing on a ladder next to a high level one, with the door open, talking rapidly and without pause in a low voice. As if he had to share everything with his loved one that had happened since his last visit. His tone was so sincere, it was touching.

Definitely the cemetery was well maintained. It was still odd compared to what I’m used to but peaceful and beautiful. Luca doesn’t need to worry — I don’t want to be buried in a place like that personally, but I can see that families might find it comforting to have such a manicured organized place to visit.

My WiFi has improved and I’m going to end this post with a bunch of Christmas lights in town. I’m right next to the Santa on the castle and it’s pretty amusing day or night.

For those of you in Chicago I hate to tell you but I was sitting outside writing this blog with the sun on me in a T-shirt and jeans — and was actually quite hot. It was 65 and really sunny. In the shade I’d be a tad chilly but the sun is strong. And it’s supposed to hit 70 this week! It’s nice to be in the southern climes. I leave for Lagos tomorrow which is actually on the water and in western Algarve. It should be nice. And tonight I’m going for dinner with my last shot at fado music. We’ll see how I like it!