Oslo

I loved Oslo. And I love Norway but I’ve also spent the most time here. That said I also had the most disappointing things happen here. But I still love the vibe.

More on that later. Thankfully I had a feeling I wouldn’t like Stockholm as much so I did a last minute shift to take a day from Stockholm and add it to Oslo. So I visited every major “Scandinavian” city for 4 days … (I’m counting Helsinki even if, like Iceland, it’s not officially Scandinavian. Still don’t know the rules and I don’t care enough to google it.) 

Floating sculpture in front of Munch museum and opera house

Maybe Oslo reminds me a little of Chicago. Very modern architecture!? Although it’s only about 750K people and physically made me think more of San Francisco. 

Munch museum (right) and Opera House whose roof was designed for people to walk up
Better picture of Opera House. Looks like a ship? Iceberg?

It has stunning, natural, water-based views with mountains and vistas everywhere. And while in some areas a hipster vibe, others felt very wealthy and snooty, and still others were a bit dirty and perhaps druggy. (Like near the bus station, not far from where I stayed. But once I figured out both public trans and a great back way to the apartment, I never had to deal with that again.) 

Must be nice to have the views and the boats!
Random isle in archipelago
View to Oslo fjord
View from Munch skybar

Norway was a rural, agricultural economy until they discovered massive petroleum reserves off their shores in the late 1960s (but didn’t successfully start producing it until 1971). They are now one of the world’s richest countries per capita. And it seems they are spending their money on maintaining a beautiful country. They’re very energy conscious which is funny (but smart) considering they’ve got all that oil!? And they’ve invested a ton in alternate energy and seem very intent on clean everything. 

So Oslo has this new area that was reclaimed from ugly dirty ports … sort of the postcard view of Oslo. 

Old view — Akershus fortress
New view— Barcode area (mostly because of the bldg kind of centered in the photo, back row. Next to a short white bldg that was labeled Deloitte — sorry Luca)

Back to crazy coincidences, I arrived in Oslo after a scenic 6 hour train ride. I dropped my bag and ran to grab a lunch at the Oslo street food market which I’d read about (as usual I made the choice to sleep rather than eat and for some reason I don’t like buying food on trains).

Yes I went for another bread bowl meal but it was the only really “Norwegian” thing in the place — it was more hip with poke bowls and Thai food?!

But I had to snarf my food because I scheduled myself for a 3 pm walking tour to get oriented immediately. And it was almost 2 when I got to the airbnb (after stopping at the Visitor information center and getting lost of course during the 14 minute walk). My tour group was small and there was a girl who had also just arrived from Stockholm. Turns out she not only was on my same morning train but also in the same train car. And the kicker, stayed at the same Stockholm hostel I’d been in — though she stayed in the dorm area for three nights. Neither of us ate there much and we never ran into one another!? Plus, she’s originally from Shanghai though had lived in Singapore for some years AND she’s currently studying in Italy (Bologna)!!!  So hello Lucy if you’re reading this!!!

Getting Norwegian food and drink

The tour was pretty high level and more pointed out what to visit and more importantly what and where to eat and drink. But we saw a lot. I think we got some slightly inaccurate information but the guide was American (MN) and only lived in Norway about 9 mos tho she was of Norwegian heritage. She was there to do a masters. 

So maybe NOT the oldest bldg — but the oldest (original) city hall — now a restaurant
Ibsen is the statue in the left? I cut out the one on the right!

Afterwards, Lucy mentioned wanting to try a food market (Mathallen) about 25 mins away so I joined her — we took the circuitous route but it all worked out.

Definitely a fancier and pricier food hall than the one I got my bread bowl from

We got moose burgers with the famous “brown cheese” added on and their drink, aquavit (which prior to this trip I thought was Swedish and juniper based but this is totally Norwegian and potato based.) We tried and shared two kinds … it was 40 proof and strong but aged and more like a whisky than the expected vodka. I liked it better than Lucy I think. 

Our moose burgers and aquavit

Afterwards, given it doesn’t get dark until 10, we sauntered back to the waterfront and walked up the opera house (it’s a thing to do) and around the neighborhood. 

Walking from the Mathallen, which was on the Akerselva River. There were a lot of cute water views but I didn’t take many photos then
On the opera house

It was beautiful. Though the minute the sun went down, I got cold!!  I had shed my fleece at the airbnb since it was so warm in the sun but regretted it when the temps dipped back to the 50s. These are views while we were still on the opera house roof. We didn’t stay until sunset since that was still a few hours away!

This is the inside of the opera house — they were having a performance—it was designed to look cold on the outside but warm on the inside with all that wood

As we descended, we saw another new area with outdoor bars, saunas, pools, cafes, and restaurants where there were still a lot of people despite it being Sunday night. 

Outdoor bar with colorful tables …
… and random doors
Public saunas. We walked back this way after the sun was down and people were still going into the water
Pedestrian bridge to get to the new area
Seaside pools— kids were swimming that night!

For some reason google maps did not want me to walk back the best possible way but I’m glad I veered off course — it’s through the newish “barcode” office buildings. It was sorta empty by the time I walked back but I felt safer than walking by the bus station after dark. It also made me realize I was only a 6 minute walk to my train platform when I had a 635 am train out!

Akrobaten (acrobat) pedestrian bridge — I was oddly not scared on it. There were lots of stairs on both ends
It was lit up at night — it crosses over the train tracks and was my back way to get to my airbnb

This was an incredibly long first day but I have a lot more about Oslo that I’ll save for another day!

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