Back to Whisky, Isles, and Castles

So I didn’t post yesterday, but I’m making up with a double today — have a double while you read this!

First, I did what I think will be my last distillery tour, but I felt obliged to visit a lowland one – namely Auchentoshan, which is a triple distilled single malt (unusual for Scottish whiskies—apparently it’s more typical for Irish ones). I had tried it in Skye and our guide there said the tour was likewise good. Meantime while the name sounds German to me, it’s Gaellic and means something about corner of the field? It’s very smooth and not at all smoky as they use no peat in their process. For the record, they’re now owned by Suntory (like Jim Beam and Makers Mark), who also owns the peaty Islay scotch, Laphroig. Anyway it was a train ride and a mile walk each way at the other end, but worked out fine. I liked this tour best of the three I did in Scotland. The guide was funny but passionate about his whisky and though he said some things contrary to what the Oban distillery guy said, I thought he made more sense. They also allowed us to take photos so here are a few of the process. Btw, he claims that Speyside (think Glenfiddich) has the majority of original Scottish distilleries only because they could dodge paying taxes most easily up there and now it’s tradition. It’s nothing to do with better water or barley (the essential contents of Scottish whisky) — but of course he’s in the lowlands so what else could he say? He also had disparaging (but funny) comments about peat and Islay whiskies.

Dalmuir is not considered a cute Scottish town and it was admittedly nothing special but I did walk through a nice park on the way to the distillery. And their whisky is quite smooth. So a good morning! I returned to Glasgow wanting to go to the Willow Tea Room that was recently redone to be like it was when Mackintosh designed it. It’s in Sauchiehall street but little did I know, there’s (at least) two within a few blocks of each other. And being me I didn’t pay attention though it absolutely did not look like the external pictures I’d seen!! I should’ve realized it but they actually had a store for Mackintosh stuff and the overall fonts and designs were absolutely imitative — net is I ended up having tea in the wrong tea room. I was googling madly while waiting for my cake, and sure enough the one I was looking for was two blocks away. So I finished quickly and headed over but absolutely could not stomach another tea. Turns out the place I wanted (called Mackintosh at the Willow) has an exhibit on Mackintosh and the restoration — they’ve only been open officially since September 7 when HRHs Charles and Camilla came for the opening (and tea).They’re very kind about letting tourists walk around and even taking photos while customers are having their tea. Although you can’t go to the fancy Salon del Luxe unless going to an event — well, there’s an early morning tour before it’s open for breakfast for early risers. I ended my day, at the suggestion of the Auchentoshan tour guide, at what’s apparently a very famous Scottish pub (The Pot Still) that has hundreds of malt whiskies at the bar. It was 430 pm and mobbed. Maybe it’s like this every day or it’s particularly crowded on a Friday. After oozing my way to the front, a nice bartender gave me some ideas of what to choose; her favorite is a Mull Ladaig, which I had on Iona (though likely not the exact same kind), but it really smelled the best! And I do like them peaty. Though I was intrigued by the others and hope I can try them sometime as well. I sat (and of course chatted) with an older Glaswegian couple who offered to buy me a “wee dram” after I finished mine but I declined and dashed off (and missed my train anyway— it’s starting to remind me of my days at Grand Central. Thankfully there’s usually another train to where I’m going within a half hour). They were adorable — five kids, oldest 51, and pretty much never traveled outside Glasgow (I’ve been to several places already they’ve never been to in Scotland). They seemed very happy and have a favorite table at the bar where they chat to each other and people watch. Quite the life!

Today the forecast was no rain or wind (and actually sunshine) on Isle of Arran so I awoke early to make the trains and ferry that would get me there at a reasonable time (it’s three hours each way). It’s Saturday and the trains and ferry were more crowded than I’ve seen in my limited, off season trips. But once I got to Arran it was fine. Except that it rained quite a bit. Well, it’d be brilliant sun and blue skies one minute and literally start raining while still sunny the next — sometimes clearing up quickly and other times raining for awhile. It did this three times in the 5 hours I was on the isle. Weather really is whacky in Scotland. You definitely need to be prepared at all times for rain. This rainbow (my first use of panorama on my iPhone) is actually a double not a weird reflection. So an advantage of all the rain. Anyway since I didn’t have a car I just headed to the Brodick Castle and grounds — a few miles from the ferry. The castle was unfortunately closed for renovations (a common occurrence for me this trip — not sure if it’s because I’m post-high season or I’m just at the wrong time). Frankly it was fine though. The grounds were lovely. And there are a lot of paths to go into the mountains (not that I went far but Francoise, I think you’re going to have to add this to your list. At some point I’m going to have to explain Munros and Corbetts, Scottish terms for mountain heights, but later?!). Goat Fell at the top of Arran’s highest peak is supposed to be amazing — not too challenging a walk but great views. At the castle, there’s water on one side and mountains on the other. And gardens in the middle.All of the shots below were taken on the grounds, within a 10-15 minute walk of the castle. It’s now owned by the Scottish Trust but at various points in its life (and in various incarnations), the castles/forts were ravaged by Vikings, English, and I think other Scots in its history. So it’s been razed and rebuilt several times. It’s currently more a luxury home than fortress as the grounds were expanded upon by a German princess who married a Duke …. and this was their sporting house. notice, btw, how sometimes it’s blue skies and other times gray and foreboding. It was doing this within minutes…Anyway Arran is quite nice. I didn’t see much of it overall (I was told it’s 56 mi around the isle and takes 2.5 hours to drive the circumference). Definitely their land is varied. They call themselves “Scotland in miniature” because the Highland fault line essentially splits the isle into two distinct sections. I saw people on the trains/ferries bringing their bikes, golf clubs, dogs, children — definitely all ready to enjoy themselves. There’s beaches and wildlife as well. And they have a distillery (of course I tried one of their whiskies at a local pub—hey it was raining and I had another hour before my ferry would leave) but I didn’t love it. Then I had to literally run for the ferry and was the last person boarded. They start boarding people 20 minutes before scheduled departure time and it seems when everyone gets on, they just take off. Thankfully I made it as it’s another 3 hours before the next one! There’s definitely a lot more to see on Arran — but I’ll have to save it for another trip.