No surprise, it’s raining and cool today (maybe 50?) and not the best weather for long hikes. And when I went back to the ferry tour counter this morning, the guy recognized me and started with “Back for more?” He suggested a ferry ride back out to Mull but this time I’d take a shuttle van to Duart castle from Craignure. It’s actually what I had been thinking to do–apparently my go-to on really rainy days is to visit a local castle. Thankfully there are plenty to choose from!

Duart castle felt like a former fortress more than the Dunvegan castle I saw in Skye. I’d say it was more of what I’d expect from a castle — facing out to the water with cannons, ramparts, and tiny windows suitable for shooting marauders while still protecting the shooters. And real dungeons (keeps).

Sadly it has a ton of scaffolding on it (they’re always doing repairs and are running out of funds to fix it) but it’s still cool. Here’s the view from the water side followed by a few other external shots. It was historically and is currently home of the Clan Maclean. They lost it due to excessive debts and raids in the late 1600s (to the Clan Campbells but more on that later) and it fell into ruin by the 1800s. In the early 1900s the Maclean clan chief bought the castle and surrounding land and restored it. Allegedly his family and others questioned his decision as he was in his mid-70s when he made the purchase. But he lived to 101 and actually saw the restoration completed. His grandson lives there now. Unlike Dunvegan, there are no fancy gardens although the museum part of the castle has interesting exhibits.

This was the banquet room which includes a candelabra that is made from horses hooves — the horse being a survivor of the charge of the light brigade. I was fascinated (hey it’s better than being turned into jello?). You can read about it below. And here are a few views from the rampart. (I love the “do not stand” part of this sign. People are yahoos.) Sadly the weather wasn’t cooperative and you really can’t see the mountains or other isles in the distance in these photos. So about feuds. My Airbnb host is a Campbell — a big clan and huge rivals of the Macleans and presumably other clans. One of the restaurants I went to back in Glencoe had a sign saying No Campbells allowed and I asked her about it — she said they’re famous for enacting revenge for all slights (making them a tad unpopular) — including an incident that sounded a lot like the Game of Thrones Red Wedding. (OK spoiler alert but has anyone not yet seen GoT who’s still planning on watching the show?!)… Anyway, they threw a wedding and invited a clan who had slighted them and after the wedding, murdered their rivals in their beds. Also btw, a Campbell bride brought Castle Duart to the Macleans as part of her dowry and when she did not produce an heir, he ditched her on one of those islands I keep being fascinated with — thinking that she would drown. Unbeknownst to him, fishermen saved her and returned her to her family — and when he went to report the sad news to the clan that she had died, she was at the banquet. Quite the shocker for him I’m sure. Sounds like a good GoT storyline but oddly they let him live that time (though a Campbell killed him later).

See these photos to get further in the feud mood — you can imagine the clans boarding ships to attack one another (although these shots include modern things like a ferry boat and a light house).

Don’t you love clan feuds?? The guide I had in Skye was a MacDonald and also had plenty of feuding stories related to his clan. He thought the House Stark and was based on the Clan MacDonald of old. Perhaps everyone here just wants to be in a GoT story!

After the castle tour, I had about 45 minutes before my ferry would leave and I was told there’s nothing in Craignure except a pub. So it was time for a wee dram. I tried their “whisky of the week,” which was Ledaig, from an Isle of Mull distillery — very peaty and smoky and good! And it gave me the strength to face the laundry after I got back.

I’m actually quite fortunate that my Airbnb has a washer AND dryer in the apartment and my lovely hostess didn’t charge me anything to use her soap or machines since I’m staying three days. (She’s incredibly sweet–don’t be swayed by the Campbell stories! This is definitely my favorite Airbnb so far.) What I forgot was how long the machines take in Europe. In Italy I didn’t even know anyone who had a dryer (though that was a long time ago). But the washer took about 1.5 hours to run and I didn’t see how to adjust water temp — I don’t think it was a cold water wash because my formerly cream colored shirt is now light blue. Oops. And the dryer took another 2 hours to run. But hey, it’s all done and my miracle fast-drying undies are also almost ready to be packed. Lesson learned — generally I should run laundry at least one day before I need to pack up. Perhaps two if I don’t have a dryer or radiators because jeans aren’t going to dry quickly?!

On that very mundane note, I will bid farewell — a dull ending to an exciting week. I take off tomorrow to go to Glasgow. And return my car. No more Highlands!